P R O C E S S - The J A C K E T

The idea of the body beneath being unrestricted by the garment is what has made me move on from this jacket. 

LOOK 1 - COLLAR UP

Its been a while since I've attempt tailoring, this attempt was very juvenile but after a quick refresher I'm all back on track. 

I'm not happy with overall aesthetic, there is something wrong about the jacket that lies in the tailoring, the lines confuses me. There is too much going on with all the seams and darts, to me there is a messiness in the crispness that is a tailored jacket. I suppose in saying that I need to define my interpretation of the tailored jacket tailored jacket then...

A garment with well considered construction and execution. A garment that commands attention and asserts power through its silhouette and presence. 

The reason I took the image with the collar up is because there is a more stream line effect that I am attracted too, to be honest I think this is more appealing because it appears to have no collar and in having no collar is reducing the business of the entire garment. 

 N O T E : I have also not yet attached the back panel yet so the jacket appears looser.

LOOK 2 - COLLAR DOWN

Look 2 with the collar down is far to busy, I feel claustrophobic. having a collar is like persecution of the jacket condemning it to a life of looking like every other 'tailored jacket'. 

I've attempted to eliminating the tight restricting nature of the jacket on the jacket in LOOK 1 by scooping away at the hem to create this fluid motion around the body, still not happy, there is still this apparent sharpness about the silhouette.

! ! B I G G E R ! ! 

The silhouette of the other 2 jackets are restricting in relation to the form, they fit the form too well to a point of restriction. It was in class that we decided that everything needed to be BIGGER, I suppose I just need to let the body swim and be free.

I love the work of Madame Gres and the way she articulates her design methodologies I find inspiring.

"I have always respected the body structure and the natural movement of a given material. I limit the number of seams in order to give a better impression of freedom of subtleness, of silhouette? 

Madame Gres

There is something about this image that made me think of this Vionnet quote . . .

"I have sought all my life to be the doctor of line" 

Vionnet