Saturday, May 5, 2012

Sydney FASHION week Spring/Summer 2012/13

O H   H I E    S Y D N E Y

Day 1 

Landed in Sydney on Sunday and on Monday morning headed to the Rocks where Mercedes-Benz Fashion Festival was being held. This was the beautiful view we were treated to as well as some beautiful weather, thanks Sydney.  



Tried to make Romance was Born but missed it, 9am was way too early 



Then saw Lisa Maree at 10am in the tent, was not impressed, lacking any WOW factor


W O O L   M O D E R N 


 We were very excited to go see WOOL MODERN. We were also very luck to be able to catch the exhibition when it was at pier 1 before it moved, such a beautiful location for this exhibition, we practically had the whole space to ourselves, no one was around to get in the way of my picture taking. 




QUEENS CHAIR 
ISABEL BERGLUND 
2011



LEFT DRESS 
CAMILLA AND MARK 
2012

SECOND LEFT 
SLEEPING BEAUTY 
KINDER AGGUGINI 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010/11




READY-TO-WEAR/KNITWEAR 
JULIEN MACDONALD
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010/11


RIGHT DRESS 
QIU HAO
2008


SHIBORI MOTIF COAT 
AKIRA ISOGAWA 
2008/2009



SLEEPING BEAUTY 
KINDER AGGUGINI 
AUTUMN WINTER 2010/11


LEFT FLOWER BOMB GOWN 
JOSH GOOT 
2012

RIGHT DRESS 
MICHAEL LO SORDO 
2011


TOP ARTISANAL TRESSE 
MAISON MARTIN MARGIELA 
SPRING/SUMMER 2009/10




WOOL INSTILLATION 
ANGELA WRIGHT 
2011


LEFT COLLAGE COAT
 JW ANDERSON 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12

MIDDLE SAVANNAH COAT 
ERDEM MARCH 
2011

RIGHT PRINCE CHARMING WOOL COAT
 VIVIENNE WESTWOOD 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010/11


LEFT CATSUIT IN JACQUARD DE PAINE GRAPHIQUE 
THIERRY MUGLER
AUTUMN/WINTER 1993/94


MIDDLE & RIGHT THE EGG TWIN 
GILES DEACON 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2009/10


ERNIE BETHANY 
JEAN FANCHER 
2003

LIGHT WOOL LIGHT 
JESSICA NEBEL 
2007

KNIT MONSTER 
SIBLING 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010


MIDDLE RIGHT MEN'S READY-TO-WEAR 
JOHN GALLIANO 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2007/08

MIDDLE LEFT SCOUTING 1 
SANSOVING 06 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12

RIGHT WAITER IN WOOL 
THOM BROWNE 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12



HAND KNITTED DRESS 
CRAIG LAWRENCE 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12


WOMEN'S READY-TO-WEAR 
LANVIN 
AUTUMN/ WINTER 2010/11


GOLD EMBELLISHED ASYMMETRIC BUSTIER DRESS 
ALEXANDER McQUEEN 
PRE-AUTUMN/WINTER 2011 


WOOLAMINA
CHARLOTTE OLYMPIA 
2009


TOP LEFT STOOL JUMPER 
ESTABLISHED & SON 
2010

ONE CUT STOOLS 
BRITTA TELEMAN 
2009

DAHLIA 
KAI LINKE 
2004


STITCH STOOLS 
CLAIR-ANNE O'BRIEN 
2011


NO HEATER WINTER CHAIR

SARAH KING

APRIL 2012






EMMA ELIZABETH HAS LOST HER MARBLES 
EMMA ELIZABETH 
2012


LEFT TAINTED LOVE DRESS WITH VAUDEVILLE BOMBER JACKET 
ELLERY 
2012

RIGHT WOOL TAILORED JACKET WITH LONG PLEATED DRESS
J.JS LEE 
2011

LEFT WOMAN'S READY-TO-WEAR
JOHN GALLIANO 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2010/11

MIDDLE LIMO COLLECTION 
RICK OWENS 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12

RIGHT WOMEN'S READY-TO-WEAR 
SONIA RYKIEL 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2005/2006


LANOLAMP 
HENRY WILSON 
2012 


 SOUVENIR PIEUX OU LE PIETEMENT DE LA CROIX 
CHRISTIAN LACROIX 
2000


RIGHT ABRACADABRA 
ERICKSON BEAMON 
AUGUST 2011


WOOLLY BULLY 
TOM BINNS 
2011


BACK DISPLAY DYED IN THE WOOL
NOT TOM 
2011


PRETEND 
PENNY CHAN 
APRIL 2012


TULLE AND TWEED COMBIE COAT
SIMONE ROCHA 
2011


LEFT MATISSE 'SNAIL'  
JENNY KEE 
1976

MIDDLE LEFT ONE SHOULDERED CROCHET DRESS
ROMANCE WAS BORN 
SPRING/SUMMER 2009/10

MIDDLE RIGHT DRESS
TINA KALIVAS 
2012


RIGHT KALEIDASCOPE POM POM MACHINE 

GORMAN 

2012




ROUTA 
LAURENT HONGISTO 
2008





MEGA CORE RUG 
NICK RADFORD RUGS 
2011


RIGHT DRESS 
SHAI JIA 
2008


INVERTED CAPE 
E. TAUTZ 
2011


LEFT WOLF IN SHEEP'S CLOTHING
MARK FAST 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12

MIDDLE OFF THE SHOULDER BLACK WOOL DRESS 
DAVID KOMA 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2009/12

RIGHT DRESS
WILLOW 
APRIL 2012


RIGHT  WARRIOR DRESS 
COLLETTE DINNIGAN 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2012/13

MIDDLE SIGNITURE WOOL TUNIC 
COURREGES 
1973

LEFT STRUCTURE SKIRT 
EMILIO DE LA MORENA
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12


LEFT WOLF IN SHEEP'S CLOTHING
MARK FAST 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12



THE PENGUIN 
ALICE PALMER 
JANUARY 2010


NECKLACESWING - WOHNSCHMUCK 
JOHANNA RICHTER
2010


SUIT 
PAUL SMITH 
AUTUMN/WINTER 2011/12








Day 2



M A T I C E V S K I


Unfortunately I didn't get any photos of the Maticevski show, however from what I remember it was really very beautiful. I haven't witnessed on the catwalk a collection that was as precise and consistent as that of Maticevski, everything was very clean and well presented right down to the last seam and pressed dress. From a retail perspective Maticevski has covered all bases and made a collection that I think will sell very well. The only bone I had to pick was the choice of exposed zips I don't know what is going on there, teaming a satin finished exposed zip with a matt fabric WHAAA?? I suppose it may have something to do with my personal bias toward the open zip that sways me to negativity.



F L O W E R S   F O R             A   V A G A B O N D 


I managed to Video this whole show, unfortunately it was all from the back but you still get to see how these guys presented. To be honest I think the clothes were just as boring as the presentation, just like many of the shows it was my personal opinion that there was a lot of poor music choices, they were ether poor taste of outdated, FLOWERS FOR A VAGABOND was another show that I think fell into this category, unfortunately I think I videoed it with sound off, SORRY 





J A S O N  B R U N S D O N 


So pretty, this was my second experience of viewing in the box and I thoroughly enjoyed it, Jason just like Jenny Kee really utilised the this arena. Jayson created a really seductive environment that you were absorber into. The only thing I didn't like was the selection in music, don't get me wrong I have no bias toward Lana Del Ray but come on is that the best you can do? The sexiness and seductive display of models was not mimicked with the choice in music.

These are a collection of images I took

Jason Brunsdon = beautiful MOMENTS


















Day 3


M C A
 (Museum of Contemporary Art)





THE VIEW FROM THE MCA CAFE



LINDY LEE
CONFLAGRATIONS FROM THE END OF TIME (FLOERS FALL)
2011
CONFLAGRATIONS FROM THE END OF TIME (AND YET)
2011
CONFLAGRATIONS FROM THE END OF TIME (MATTER AS MOTION'S FORM)
2011
CONFLAGRATIONS FROM THE END OF TIME (IN A SINGLE DROP OF WATER )
2011


LINDY LEE
CONFLAGRATIONS FROM THE END OF TIME (FLOERS FALL)
2011




Lindy Lee's works 'CONFLAGRATION FROM THE END OF TIME . . .' in 'Marking Time' was an image of immense complexity, the seemingly simplistic presentation could suggest otherwise. She created the pieces by burning the wholes in the surface then placing the pieces outside amongst the natural elements for a period of time. There were forces completely out of her control that impacted upon her art. It's interesting to see the differences in the 4 pieces, where it is obvious where more of Lee's hand was used and which ones were impacted more upon by the universe around her. I find this a very trusting way to approach art, most of the time I feel when I approach a creative endeavour I have a specific image in mind of how I want my work to look at the end of the process. To allow a force other that your own to intervene with your creative process is something that could quite easily be adapted to a fashion practice. 
The concept of loose collaborations is what interests me in relation to an art and design practice and which so often of late has been occurring within the fashion industry.


When Viewing Lindy Lee's work I saw how in a way it relates to my own practise. Ultimately my uncontrolled component is the female form, and even though a certain amount of control can be places upon this form of transient moments are enviable.


Through the development of my prototypes I never aim to finish the garment, it is my belief that none of my garments are ever complete until the form takes on and carries the garment and they work with one another to be complete


"one can never be complete without the other"


Is a common thread that I use to describe an element of my practice. 


These images I have taken are of practitioners that have presented their work in a way I find interesting and inspiring in relation to a fashion perspective and how I can apply their methods of communication to my own practice. 


Images taken at the  M C A  'Marking Time' 



TATSUO MIYAJIMA
DEATH CLOCK 
2011-12



SANGEETA SANDRASEGAR
ITS FEET WERE TIED, WITH A SILKEN THREAD OF MY OWN HANDS WEAVING 
2010





ROBERT OWEN
SUNRISE #3
2005




NICHOLAS FOLLAND
THE DOOR WAS OPEN... 
2006


This chandelier was AMAZING, at first sight I didn't quite understand what it was that surrounded the centre What was this white hard substance? Having  M C A  staff standing right near me hampered upon my attempts to touch this white ball to uncover what it was made of. In the end I asked the  M C A  staff. There was a copper pipe running from the ceiling and had cold water running through it which caused this ball to freeze, it was frozen water that inhabited the centre of this lighting fixture.


ESME TIMBERY (WITH DAUGHTER MARILYN RUSSELL)
SHELLWORKED SLIPPERS 
2008




ASHER BILU
INSIGHT INTO THE ULTIMATE
1988








NICK MANGAN
EXOECOAXIS
2005








FIONA HALL
GIVE A DOG A BONE
1996



IAN BURN
PHOTOGRAPHIC MIRROR (REFERENTIAL LINE: ROBERT MORRIS)
1967-68
'VALUE-ADDED' LANDSCAPE NO 14
1993





SIMRYN GILL
A LONG TIME BETWEEN DRINKS 
2009




MARIA KOZIC
MANSTER (WOLF MAN) 
1986


MANSTER (THE PICTURE OF DORIAN GREY) 
1986



Nike Savvas
showtime
1999



M E N S   S H O W 

Injury

Kalb & Etiw

Mils

Zsadar

Nathan Paul Swimwear





Sadly I didn't get to capture all of these shows on catwalk, it was probably for the best. I have no idea what is going on here! I'm not a fan of men's wear and I guess I can't really appreciate it ether so this has contributed to my negativity toward this show. 
Excuse my crassness but the whole show was a wank, a complete disillusioned take on the new aged man, if the new aged man was a woman than maybe but ready-to-wear mainstream men's wear needs to be balanced with soft masculinity. 

Mercedes-Benz fashion week said . . . 

Mils  

"Deconstructed, reinvented and inspired;MILS is a luxury brand providing alternative designer apparel for the contemporary gentleman"


Zsadar"With a strong artistic, rather than commercial, approach to fashion design, ZSADAR draws inspiration from the ideas of androgyny, anarchy, experimentation, conceptualism and subversion"

Kalb & Etiw

KALB & ETIW by Sebastian Sokha. Sokha is a self-taught designer, passionate about providing tailored pieces that are versatile to suit any occasions. With a contemporary, elegant and sophisticated look that can work amongst any season or trend. 

Injury

INJURY is the fashion soundtrack to an enigmatic movie. The name INJURY - when you are being cut and sewn you are in a situation of INJURY same as fabrics.

From Britten P/L

Combining conceptual ideas with classic principles, endeavouring to create a style that is characterised by simplicity, proportion, detail and importantly with restraint. 


I congratulate the designers for presenting on this level, but sometimes I feel as if there is an element of everything being done, re-done and done again with out any consideration as to how they can redevelop these concepts.

It was mentioned quite a few times in some of the Mercedes-Benz write ups how the designers are not originally from a fashion back ground or are self taught, what is with that? All for them teaching themselves but as the great Alexander McQueen one said "you must learn the rules to be able to break them" how can you totally understand fashion if you don't understand the root of it all, how are you qualified to call yourself a designer if you don't grasp every aspect of it. 

There was a lack of freshness, and a fear of really standing out.

There was less seriousness with the swimwear with the models doing comical poses for the cameras, but that doesn't distract from the lack of design, you can dress a donkey up but a donkeys still always going to be a donkey.



Day 4  



N E W   G E N E R A T I O N


I really can't bring myself to say anything, I was underwhelmed


J E N N Y   K E E

On Thursday morning my last day I was lucky enough to grad a ticket to see Jenny Kee.  
Kee collaborated with Romance was born, who styled her show which included nearly 30 years of archived prints. 
The show was in the box which allowed Jenny's to present her collection as more of an exhibition,  the models were like statues and the garments such as scarfs tights, leggings and knits were draped round their bodies. You walked into the room an were immersed in a see of colour all your senses were tingling, the smell of gumtrees and eucalyptus filled the room and you couldn't help but feel happiness radiating out of you. 
 Everything was so well considered, the styling was impeccable, the head pieces, accessories and make up were so beautiful, lavish but didn't over power the clothing, even the nails were coloured in the most magnificent shades, I tried to take some pictures of the nails. Because I was only in the general admission I just didn't get enough time to really appreciate the garments, so I took as many photos as I could so that I could flick through them later. 
Jenny Kees show was an escape from the almost claustrophobic shows of the past 3 days, she presented you with a visually exciting display that was more ART than fashion, considering it's her first solo fashion week show since 1981 Jenny did not disappoint. 

 SO REFRESHING 

By far my FAVOURITE show, you AMAZING Jenny Kee 



My invite ! 


These are the images I managed to grab of the show









































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